Basics of RGB/CRT/HDTV Gaming

Basics of RGB/CRT/HDTV Gaming 


Did you know that many of your retro consoles can output a higher resolution than just composite resolution? This means sharper graphics, better images, etc. Many of the consoles do this by default but because of the RF Cable or Composite pack in cables we all just assumed that was the best that was out there. When in fact these were limiting the console output by highly compressing the signal. Here is an example below of the changes you can see.



Disclaimer: I have permission from to use some of their photos for this wiki and point you to their informationals as well as My Life In Gaming. Enjoy!


Super Nintendo Mario Kart


Disclaimer: This is from the MyLifeInGaming group that did the RGB master class series on YouTube.


So you want to get RGB, or the best quality available, from your retro console and don’t know where to start? Here you go! If you are a “I want to research it all myself person” like I then skip down to the end and the Resources section” at the end of this document.


Goal: First you need to understand there are many ways to do retro gaming and many ways to set up the original consoles. This isn’t going to deal with emulation or virtual console setups, this is assuming you have the original console hardware and want to get it set up in some of the more popular ways available. There are several variations on these setups but most of the retro gamers that I’ve run into either go the HDTV upscaler route or the CRT route. These are just some thoughts and guidelines to help you understand more about what’s involved and what to do.


Basic No Hassle Composite RCA Cables Setup: If you just want to plug your console into your HDTV (or crt) and that’s it and don’t care beyond that, then plug the composite RCA cables (red, white, yellow) into your TV if you have that input. If you don’t have it, but have a component(Green, Red, Blue, Red/White) input, then plug the yellow RCA cable from your console into the green plug on your component input and the red and white into the normal sound input for the component on your TV. Make sure that the input is set to game mode on your TV and you’ll be off and running. It will “work” but the picture may not be as clear as you’d like (or remember as a kid) and there may be some lag between button inputs. However, for someone who just wanted to have a quick Mario Kart 64 session, it probably won’t be a problem. If you want to see how deep the rabbit hole goes, continue reading.


Method 1: HDTV 

So, do you have an LCD/LED HDTV and want to get your consoles to look their best through it?  Well, one way to do that is with a video upscaler. However, a lot of video upscalers can have issues handling different signals, adding excessive lag and many other issues. Most modern LCD TV’s have built in scalers that are usually pretty poor quality. Generally, the best upscaler recognized in the the retro community currently is the XRGB-mini Framemeister. This was developed in Japan with retro gaming in mind and it offers some of the lowest added input lag of any upscaler out there. It also has a LOT of settings for adding in those classic scan lines(which aren’t actually the black lines, but you can research that later). It also can handle the 240p original outputs of many older consoles and it scales them correctly. It also includes a custom RGB input cable and can output in HDMI so you can plug it straight into your HDTV. The downside however, is that Framemeisters cost about $300-350. There are some cheaper ones out there, but be very careful, this site lists a few good ones even though it’s a tad older site.


OSSC is another great upscaler that isn’t as expensive as the Framemeister. More info can be gathered here on it:


The other thing to know is that newer HDTV’s process and can upconvert signals as well. I’m not going to get into all the technical details here, but basically what you need to know is that HDTV’s cause input lag in addition to attempting to scale the image if it’s delivered to them in anything less than 720p(I realize there is interlacing as well and some TV’s can do 480i and so on but that’s more technical than I intend to cover here).


These reasons and a few others are why going through a framemeister or OSSC first is ideal so your TV doesn’t try to scale it improperly and you need something to get it to a video input standard your HDTV understands easily like HDMI.


You will also need to make sure the HDMI inputs on your TV are set to “Game Mode.” Most TV manufacturers make this setting to turn off all additional processing/filters/extra crap that will slow down the inputs from your old console  or devices to your tv screen. Research your TV and other TV’s to see what sort of lag it already has and for reference know the Framemeister will add about ~20ms (1-1.5ish frames) of lag.


If between your TV and the Framemeister you have more than ~55ms (4ish frames) of lag you might start to notice some slight input lag between when you press(input) a button and there is a reaction on screen. It may be incredibly small, but that’s about when I’ve seen some people start to notice. There is very little it can affect at that rate but I still firmly believe in things like Smash Melee, Mega Man, and other games it can be the difference between death and doing what you intended. If you are old like me and have slower reaction times then you may not notice actual screen lag until around ~80 ms(6ish frames).  I know using cheat codes is where this is also noticeable if they are input driven codes that are time based.


Here are some resources to check input lag on your TV and get the framemeister. – Large TV Database, they test input lag on Game Mode specifically. – This was another good database

If you go this route you will also need SCART cables. SCART is a video standard used in the UK and in Japan, it is a 21 pin connector called JP21 in Japan and SCART in the UK. It is capable of displaying full RGB and carrying sound. Unfortunately, TV’s don’t have this method in the US. If you are in the UK, look into getting some SCART cables and doing RGB mods on your consoles if needed and then you just need a SCART connector into your TV! All the systems that output RGB by default you’ll be able to just get the cable and hook it right up.


Be careful how you proceed with SCART because there is the European SCART standard and the Japanese standard is called JP-21. The Japanese standard is wired different than the European models so don’t cross streams or cables in this instance! The Framemeister comes with the SCART to RGB cable that is JP-21, so you have to make sure all your SCART cables to your consoles are JP-21 and not the European standard because they are wired slightly differently. However, you can get a European SCART adapter that will plug into the Framemeister and use the European SCART cables. I recommend that method because I’ve had an easier time finding European SCART standards over JP-21 but they are both out there.


 I’d strongly recommend watching through this series to see more on cables you need for the Framemeister and how to hook it up. You need the SCART to RGB adapter. The Framemeister comes with a JP-21 so if you want a different one that is European standard you’ll need to purchase it. – I’d recommend watching 101, 102, and 103. – TV/Framemeister Settings – Adapter Cable


Method 2: CRT or Professional Video Monitor/RGB Monitors


Part 1: CRT This is my preferred method. I prefer this because it’s relatively cheap; you just need the specialized cables and maybe some system selectors/switches.  I have the space in my setup for a CRT so I went this route and haven’t looked back. CRT’s are huge and heavy, so first and foremost make sure you have the required space and that your entertainment center can support the weight. The last thing you need is it buckling when you slap your amazing CRT on there.


TV’s: My brand of choice is Sony and model Trinitron. Sony did a great job in building these TV’s with quality components and they jam packed all sorts of features that many CRT’s at the time didn’t have standard. STAY AWAY FROM HD CRT’s. I can’t stress that enough. The larger HD CRT’s or the old Projection floor units, are not ideal for retro gaming. The Projection units had rough displays, bad angle viewing, burn in issues, typically didn’t last and were sub par to a lot of what’s out there. The reason I say to avoid HD CRT’s, is that light gun games won’t work on them. They also can have widescreens, which does not display 4:3 ratio well and sometimes have scaling issues and it may try to upscale or downscale like a newer TV does adding lag and issues in too. Many of them also exceed 30 inches and the sweet spot for retro gaming CRT’s is about 24 -27 inches. I’ve found varying reasons for this ranging from screen size/ratios to original designer intent, to just freaking weight.


There are some good forum posts out there on it all; so if you want to know the reasons, Google it and find some forums with people much smarter than I. My main reason in my set up is the weight issue and light gun incompatibility. PVM’s or Professional Video Monitors are also a good way to go because they are about 18-20 inches usually. I just think it’s too small for me, but we’ll get into those more shortly. I had a 24 inch consumer CRT I gamed on because it worked the best for my configuration and now I moved to a 29 inch (27 inches viewable) PVM. So in the end go for what works on your setup and what you want.

As mentioned, 24-27 inch CRT’s weigh about 70-130 pounds. Those HD CRT’s that are 32+ inches start around 150 pounds and go up from there. My entertainment center can do about 100 pounds so it’s maxed out on weight now.


Inputs: Make sure the CRT you are looking for has S-Video, Composite (yellow, red, white) and Component (YPbPr Green/Red/Blue/Red/White) inputs. I say this because if you want a setup that takes advantage of S-Video or Component, it’s necessary and it’s always good to have those along with Composite or maybe even RF as a fall back. Below is a link to Sony Trinitron models and it will list their inputs based on model number. The best place to pick up a CRT is your local thrift store or check Craigslist or maybe even local Pickup-Only eBay auctions.


There are lots of good TV’s out there, it doesn’t have to be a Sony. That was my preference and their trinitron technology was the first of it’s kind. Other companies replicated it into the mid 90’s but they are fairly abundant in my area. A friend of mine has a great Samsung CRT, Phillips and Sharp had good ones as well. Personally I’d stray away from the lower brand or no name brand ones but they can work in a pinch. Shoot for early to Mid-2000’s if possible on age, there is usually a tag with a year on the back of the TV units. Usually a newer year means they haven’t been used as much and can have a lot of life still left. Older ones may be closer to dying and burning up all the remaining phosphors. – Based on my scouring of the interwebs, the KV-27FV310 is seen as the pinnacle of standard consumer grade CRT’s for retro gaming. I have yet to spot one in the wild though. I have a KV-24FS120 and love it but it has some slight color bleed and geometry issues that I didn’t notice until comparing it with a PVM.  It has two composite, one S-Video and One Component input.


Hooking up to the CRT. My setup uses SCART Cables I picked up from either


Here: (they ship to the US as well)


Or Here:


And an Analog Scart to Component Video box found here:


You can get audio breakout cables and manage them through their own audio selector/switch, or you can get an audio breakout box from the dealer above. Then just run your SCART cables through the audio breakout box then into the Component box. I am actually planning to mod my component box for audio which is really easy. Also SCART carries Audio but you can handle the audio however you want.


Instructions are here:


Recently I switched to wiring the audio separately since SCART can carry it I just have that running into an audio selector as well as my composite/svideo consoles splitting out audio into the audio selector too.


If you don’t want to go the SCART to Component route, S-Video is still an awesome and viable option for consoles like the SNES, N64, Saturn, 3DO, GameCube and Dreamcast by default. I’d recommend trying to get official Nintendo S-Video cables with the A/V multiout connector or the ones from Monster released for the GameCube. Basically you want good shielded cables. Dreamcast and Sony had their own brand of SVideo cables while the 3DO can use any Svideo cable. The monster cables have good shielding and you don’t have to worry about interference. However, the official SVideo cables can be hard to find and the monster cable runs about $80 now and the Nintendo one is about $50. There are other branded or no name ones that will work, but the Sega consoles all output RGB by default (even the Nomad), and the Dreamcast and Saturn do support S-Video without a mod. The other consoles I mention below don’t support S-Video without a mod. So for those, you need to do a SCART to Component, a Framemeister set up, HD Retrovision’s cables, or just be ok with composite if you don’t want to do a mod on the system. Here is my previous setup and how I had everything connected:


I had two switches and a convertor box; an analog Component box, a SCART switch, and an S-Video switch that can handle Composite or S-Video. My S-Video switch will handle Svideo and Composite and it runs directly into the S-Video and Audio on the TV.  Not all switches can do this! (specifically the Pelican Game Selectors from GameStop have to be all Composite wired in and output through composite or all S-Video, no mixing and matching). My SCART switch(Bandridge, Hama, or the custom one on RetroRGB are your best options other ones can really suck, so just do a lot of research and a quality one is going to cost $75+ but it’s worth it) outputs to the Component Box which then I have Component cables from it to the TV. The audio is broken out now on the Scart Switch(Bandridge let’s you hook up audio cables out from it so I went that route) and I have a red/white running from the SCART switch to the audio input for Component on my TV. None of these consoles have a video mod, this is all working off what they natively support.


Here’s my previous and now current setup for each system:



Consumer TV Setup: Composite into S-Video Switch (my switch will carry a composite signal over svideo output, but not all switches will do this, it depends on how it’s wired) If this is your only Composite console you could of course just have it on it’s own input into the TV as well.


PVM Setup: 

Composite directly into PVM and audio goes through audio selector switch to external speakers. Since it’s still my only consistently played composite I just have it wired straight in to composite bia a BNC to RCA adapter.


SNES 1Chip-01 Model


Consumer TV Setup: Component Setup

Scart to Scart selector, then into a Component Convertor box.


PVM Setup:


SCART to Bandridge SCART selector switch, then to PVM via BNC.  Audio broken out from Scart selector and that goes to an audio switch that goes straight to my external speakers.


N64 –

Consumer TV Setup:

SVideo into Svideo Switch to TV


PVM Setup: I did the RGB Mod for NS1 N64’s and now do the multi-out to Scart with a Sync on Luma Cable I had to get a cable with a built in Sync Stripper because the PVM didn’t handle the signal correctly.



Consumer TV Setup:

SVideo into Svideo switch audio through SVideo switch


PVM Setup:

SVideo through Svideo selector into PVM, audio carried on svideo selector as well.



Consumer TV Setup:

SCART into SCART selector to component converter to TV.


PVM Setup:

SCART cable To SCART Switch to BNC.


Genesis/32x/Sega CD-

Consumer TV Setup:

SCART cable to SCART selector, to component converter to TV


PVM Setup:

Scart cable to Scart Switch to BNC, audio from the front headphone stereo jack goes into audio switch right now which goes into external speakers. I have the High Definition Graphics Non-TMSS Model 1(these have better audio output and don’t have the TMSS screen.)


Dreamcast –

HDTV Setup:

 Outputs to VGA box from these guys I use the Kuro it’s their most basic and goes via VGA into my HDTV(which has moderately low input lag and I have it set on PC or the Game setting and all additional processing turned off).


PVM Setup:

I switched this using an official dreamcast SVideo cable it now runs into the SVIdeo selector and into the PVM, I kept having lag issues on my TV so I opted to go to the PVM even though it’s only SVideo it still looks really amazing.


Projector Setup:

I do sometimes use it with a projector via VGA now too with the VGA box. I could get a Toro box from beharbros for SCART into the PVM but haven’t yet.



Consumer TV:

I’m using the db electronics grafx booster which hooks into the expansion port on the TG16 and will provide composite, svideo, or RGB via a the same connector a Genesis 2 uses. now sells these with an enclosure and it’s called the Turbo Engine Block. I originally had this running SCART to component and I also tested out SVideo.


PVM Setup:

Using the Turbo Engine Block a Genesis 2 SCART cable (I believe he said it will work with HD retrovision’s cables but I haven’t confirmed yet) I’m running it into the SCART selector to PVM


Atari 2600 –

Consumer TV Setup:

RF directly into CRT.


PVM Setup:I modded a Colecovision for Composite so now I use the Atari Module for Coleco and run both of them over composite into the PVM.


PS2 – Component into HDTV, don’t have it hooked up to the PVM right now.


PS3 – HDMI into HDTV, Use this for some PS1 gaming somewhat.


Xbox 360 – HDMI into HDTV

Some Quick Video Output Stats:


NES- Natively outputs only Composite. Can be modded with NESRGB for RGB output and also there is a NES HDMI mod now. Info here:


SNES-  SNS Original console Vs 1 Chip Motherboards Vs SNES Mini/Jr.. All on same video output but different motherboard revisions. All early form factor SNES’s output RGB by default.


SNES Jr’s have arguably the best RGB output but they only do RF/Composite out by default. They need to be modded with a quick mod (very similar to the N64 NS1 mod) for full RGB.  If you want the original form factor (like myself) look for SNES’ that are “1-chip” versions. Every system I’ve opened with a serial number of “UN3….” on the bottom has been a 1-chip motherboard. However, there are different versions of the 1-chip there is -01, -02 and -03. -03 is what is in the SNES Jr. for the most part and also very hard to find on the original form factor SNES. It doesn’t support CSync but 1chip-01 and 1chip-02 do which can affect the SCART cable you get. The only way to know which 1chip revision you have is to open up the console but I have some preliminary findings on specific model numbers if you want to hone in further on the original form factor models. This is just what I’ve noticed and your mileage still will vary. All SNES Jr’s I’ve seen are the 1Chip-03.

UN30….. – 1Chip-01

UN31…..-  1Chip-01 (MAYBE -02)

UN315….- 1Chip-02

UN32….. – 1Chip-03

UN6 or UN8 – Means the system was sent to Nintendo for repairs, and no way to tell from the serial number which board it might be.

UN1 and UN2 have all been the original or slight variations on the original board design not 1Chip’s that I’ve seen.


  If you are going the SCART route on the

SNES stick with either the earlier models or the 1chip-01/02 and a CSync SCART cable so you don’t have to deal with a different Sync cable on the 1chip-03. If you want the 03 then you’ll need to mod the console or get a Sync on Luma cable (possibly with a stripper too if your PVM or such only accepts csync signals). – RGB Super Nintendo


Genesis/Sega- Master System, Genesis, 32x, Sega CD, Genesis Model 2, Nomad, Saturn and I believe Genesis Model 3 all support RGB natively. Dreamcast supports S-Video and VGA out. Saturn also supports SVideo but you really should go for full RGB in my opinion.

Sega made an official VGA box for the Dreamcast but it’s very difficult to find and usually goes for over $100. I’d recommend one from who I referenced earlier.


N64 – Outputs S-Video natively, so you can get some multi-out SVideo cables and hook it up that way if you want a quick solution. There is an RGB mod for earlier model N64’s that are serial number NS1 and also now there is an UltraHDMI RGB method for any N64 as well. Recently, there have been discoveries in Anti-Aliasing and Deblurring in them which you can learn about here:


GameCube – GameCube outputs S-Video natively, but earlier versions of the GCU model number DOS-001 have a secondary digital output that could be used in conjunction with the AV multi out(to carry sound) to deliver Component signal to your TV. However, the official GCU Component cables go for about $200 if you can find them. Personally, I’ve found S-Video to be almost as good and a LOT cheaper. If you are using a CRT or PVM there is virtually no input lag for you hardcore Melee gamers or those of you that just hate lag above all else. The comparison videos I’ve seen between Component and SVideo just isn’t enough for me to justify a $200 purchase. Also, there are some workings in the retro community to get the Wii component cables to work on a modded GCU using the Digital out on the back of the original GCU’s and there is some testing going on now with it so you can always wait and go that route potentially.  Also PAL GCU’s output RGB natively so with those you can use the multi-out to SCART.


Note: The Wii’s that were backwards compatible run GCU games in the exact same way as the GCU, offering essentially the same experience. So if you don’t want to buy a GCU and don’t care about the initial Wii screen to select your GCU game before you can play it, then that’s an option for you and you can get Component cables for your Wii pretty cheap. It even has plugs for your GCU controllers (early model Wii’s only).


Atari – The 2600 and 7800 can be modded for Composite or S-Video output. I haven’t done this yet and there is an Svideo mod for the 5200 but I haven’t attempted it yet. If you want to get more out of it then standard RF, both of those are good options to look in too.


Atari Jaguar – Outputs RGB signal natively, and you can get Jaguar to SCART cables as well for your setup.


3DO – It outputs S-Video/Composite natively no RGB without a mod, but the SVideo is really good.


TurboGrafx16- Needs mod or adapter to do RGB but is an easy fix. Outputs only RF Natively. If you have the Turbo Booster add on, it can do Composite. There are some easy do it yourself mods as well using the expansion port where you can wire up composite to work as well.  I picked this up and it works great It utilizes the expansion port on the back to get Svideo, Composite, or RGB.


TurboDuo – I don’t have this console but this may be a good alternative, it’s much more pricey but many sellers on eBay sell region free, re-capped, RGB models and they will do TG16 games, PCE, and Turbo CD. You still need the System Cards for the CD games, but this might be a good option instead of an individual TG16/PCE and a CD drive add-on.


Part 2: Professional Video or Broadcast Video Monitors


  RF Comp SVideo     RGB to YUV(SDTV) RGB PVM


PVM stands for Professional Video Monitor. All analog PVM’s are CRT’s but not all CRT’s are PVM’s.


Many companies made these but Sony in particular called their models Sony-PVM or BVM(Broadcast Video Monitor). So it’s a little bit of a trick, Professional Video Monitors are a thing on their own and sometimes just called RGB monitors or High Definition/High Quality Monitors, but PVM’s are technically Sony’s brand. Brilliant marketing and positioning on their part.


Anyway, these were made of the best quality materials at the time because they were meant to be professional use and to remain on all the time. So where a standard consumer CRT may be rated for ~30,000-50,000 hours before it goes out, a PVM would go for closer to ~100,000-200,000 hours. In addition, BVM’s or Broadcast Video Monitors were a special line from Sony built to even higher standards than PVM’s and capable of slightly more hours in the 150,000-300,000 range.  Typically, when PVM’s came out they cost between $3,000-10,000 where a standard consumer CRT new would be $500-2000. BVM’s would be more like $5,000-25,000. Most places that have or had PVM/BVM’s are old video studios, medical facilities, colleges, government facilities, etc. They pop up on eBay once in awhile and on Craigslist from time to time. Also you can find them on medical auction sites sometimes or government surplus. Usually you can find a 20” PVM for $200-500 but BVM’s will run you more like $500-$3,000. I’ve seen 14” PVM’s as low as $50 so deals still exist for them. The thing with these are the inputs on these vary greatly.


Many of them have BNC connectors and will support RGB, and a lot of them do support multiple video standards such as composite, RGB and S-Video. The S-video is through the normal connector(usually) but sometimes Composite or Component will be supported through BNC connectors not the typical RCA connectors you are familiar with on standard CRT’s but a YUV BNC.  These and some old Commodore monitors are the only things I’m aware of in the states that support full RGB natively. In Europe, you might luck up and find an old consumer CRT with SCART inputs that supports full RGB.


For more info on PVM’s and BNC connectors and sync types as well as connections google them and check the /r/crtgaming subreddit. I added a link below to Sony’s M2MD series as well. A lot of retro gamers consider RGB Monitors the Gold Standard, there are many more TVL’s or scanlines meaning sharper images, they last longer, and display fantastically. The M2MD series is 600 TVL over a 20 inch display. Some PVM’s will go up to 800 TVL and some BVM’s will do 1000+ TVL. The higher you go the sharper the resolution, but be aware the more scanlines/TVL the more you lose that “nostalgia look” because the lines are so fine on the TV it may not have the distinctions your brain remembers with those black lines. Standard consumer TVs were more in the 250-450 TVL range.  I personally like the look of my 27inch 600 line PVM but I also like the 20inch models with 600 TVL. Many professional monitors can also do 480i which wasn’t typical of other CRT’s at the time or today’s TV’s at all anymore. There are a few PVM/BVM’s over 20 inches but they are few and far between and difficult to find. The big name ones are the NEC XM29 and Sony PVM 2950Q and 2950QM. There are also some BVM D32 and D34 models Also the /r/crtgaming subreddit has a good list of RGB Monitors as well and specs.


Component is a different type of signal from RGB even though the cable has the same colors. It technically isn’t the same as RGB and it sits between S-Video and Full RGB on the comparison videos usually. RGB is the raw analog Red, Green, and Blue video signals with sync carried usually on a separate cable. Component is Black/White, Red, Blue information and Green is calculated from those because if you know Red/Blue whatever is left is Green and it handles the sync differently. Also Component can be different on older TV’s from what we are familar with on newer TV’s. There’s YUV and also YPbPr, so it’s important to make sure what you are dealing with although most things from the late 90’s early 2000’s to now are YPbPr.


Some good info here


There is very little difference in my opinion overall though and I prefer Component unless I’m on a PVM, because once you see Full RGB on a RGB Monitor in real life it’s shocking. This image is from a Wii. I’ve seen noted a few places that the difference between RGB/Component basically comes down to basically brightness/color settings and such on your TV and Component is mathematically the same as RGB, but raw RGB is pretty much the simplest and I think still the best for PVM’s.


I do have a friend that has a dual PVM setup where he basically daisy chained two PVM’s together because they had inputs and outputs over BNC connections.  You can also achieve this basically with a SCART splitter and then two BNC breakouts to two PVM’s so you can both game at the same time on your own PVM and do Co-op games together without looking at the same screen. It works great for racing games like Mario Kart and with the GCU Gameboy Advance, multi play is pretty sweet.  -RGB Master Class 104 PVM’s and CRT’s


RGB Resources:


Informational/Mods: – RGB Systems, Popular/Current Mods – RGB Master Class Intro, I recommend watching their whole 100, 200, and 300 series. – General Guide To RGB – Mod services, mod kits, etc.

http:// – Mod services, mod kits, etc.


XRGB-Mini Framemeister:




Other Upscalers:


Cables: (they ship to the US as well and it’s fairly cheap) (they will do some slight customization cables to because they make their own)

GCU SVideo- Monster SVideo Cable for SNES/N64 are the best I’ve found. – SCART to BNC cables, Bandridge Selectors, also very knowledgeable and allows some customizations.


Component and Audio Cables – Monster Cables or just ones that have decent insulation and protection.


Converter Boxes:

Analog Scart to Component Video box found here:


Dreamcast Box Custom Built:!products/cngp


CRT/Sony Information: – Input Lag Database- Their testing methods seem the most consistent from what I’ve found. – Input Lag Database – Input Lag Database


Professional Monitors:

Sony, NEC, JVC, Panasonic, Ikegama all have some pretty good professional monitors, it just varies by model.


Scart Switches:

Also on Ebay search for Bandridge SCART, there are a few sellers from the Netherlands and other areas in Europe with lots of these.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

/* add by OCEANUS */