Naos-M Guide

What you’ll need


    • Both Mice (G305 + whichever you’re going to mod)

    • STL files

    • Screwdriver

    • Cutting tools. I’m sure there’s a million things you can use. I generally stick with the basic snipper that came with my Ender 3 (

  • If you use a razor or something else take care to cut away from yourself, never toward

    • 3D Printer or Access to prints

  • Try r/3DPrintMyThing

  • Printing services work but I have no personal experience with them and it can be difficult to guarantee that they’ll print it correctly

  • Message me on reddit or Etsy. I can send prints within the Continental US.

  • Patience. Sometimes things don’t click or line up right away. Depending how you push when you put your mouse together, you may move something out of position as well. Unless you have a bad print or broke something off, it’s very likely that it just requires a bit of fiddling to dial in


Battery/Weight concerns



I use AAAs in all of these but if you know how to solder you can use a lighter battery. For reference, an Energizer Lithium AAA is around 7.7 grams.

Laying it all out


Necessary cuts


There are a lot of cuts to be made. I used the flush cutters for all of it but I highly recommend you use something better suited toward it. You need to make these cuts to fit the G305 PCB. The next few pages will have a lot of pics showing angles of the cuts. I’ve tried to highlight all of the cuts. Worse case, cut less and keep trying to fit it. Once it actually takes you’re done of course.

Cut the bottom of the main click switches so that they’re flat.

Left is before right is after. This is actually simple, just cut to the flat part. Example below as well.


Tuck the ends in their respective sides. They only fit in one way so it should be straight forward. Make sure to tuck the + side connector in.


Attaching PCB

You’ll need to slide the PCB a bit to the left and go under the back right screw hole. Once you’re under slide it back to the right.

There are four PCB screw holes. Do those now.

Slide the switch holders on. Push the switches down and into place. Place the side button PCB in its slot and slide it down.

Attaching the top shell

Line up the front first. Push it down and then back. Keep the back elevated (even moreso than this if you need to) while you do this. If you absolutely cannot get it to slide into place you likely didn’t trim enough off and the PCB can’t go forward. Refer back to the reference pics. I find it helpful to remove these pieces (below) and put just the skeleton on to see down under to determine any alignment issues.

Now just flip the mouse and do the screw holes. The right one can be a little finnicky since it’s not a fully solid chamber, but it’ll align and thread still. Don’t overtighten these.

Mine is 67.35g. I’d expect a little bit of variation depending on how much you cut out etc.

Printing Considerations


Print with Thin Walls detected


In PrusaSlicer under “Layers and Perimeters”

In Cura under “Shell”. Enable all settings and search “thin”


Slicer Settings: Mainly 0.2mm in PLA


My settings are quite close to the defaults so sharing them all is probably not worth much. If you’re printing a baseplate with holes on the bottom you may want to go slower, at least for the first few layers to make sure they adhere well. I do most of my prints on an Ender 3 for reference. If you have standard troubleshooting issues and such, you’re much better off looking to the standard 3D Printing help communities than asking me as I know very little compared to them.

Checking DPI Deviation


I tend to keep the G305 sensor at the stock height in order to maintain its default DPI levels and lift-off distance. Sometimes it’ll have to be lower or higher to fit with the mouse. If you want to check for deviation download MouseTester (1.53 is the latest version at the moment, and run it as administrator. Measure your CPI and follow the instructions. If you’re 50-100 off, then compensate accordingly in the Logitech Software.


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