Wireless MM710/MM711 Guide (Base Mod)

Wireless MM710/711 Guide | Base Version | G305 Mod


***Perform this mod at your own risk, I cannot guarantee the quality of prints by 3rd parties nor the success of the mod if you don’t follow the instructions. Doing this mod WILL void the warranty on your mouse***


Obligatory Plug

If you don’t have a 3D printer, feel free to contact me to get the pieces printed (CONUS). For other countries, it’s probably best if you find a local service due to shipping costs.


I also offer DIY kits for both the fully 3D printed version and the Base Mod for existing MM710s, which are tested with G305 parts and the MM710 before they are sent out. If they aren’t out currently they should be out soon in my Etsy shop, but if you contact me directly there is a discount because there are no Etsy fees. Here’s where the files and DIY kits will be: https://www.etsy.com/shop/CryoMods?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=781126504





I will also offer fully completed ones by request, but I probably won’t have any stocked up due to material costs.


If you feel uncomfortable performing this mod or are interested but don’t have the tools, you can commission me for a fully built one where you can request various colors/options.


Table of Contents 


Title Page & Contact Information Pg. 1

Obligatory Plug Pg. 2

TOC (You are here) Pg. 3

Parts Catalog Pg. 4

Tools Pg. 5

3D-Print Settings & Tips Pg. 6-9

Assembly Pg. 10-27

  • MM710 Disassembly Pg. 10-12

  • MM710 Trimming Pg. 12-16

  • PCB Preparation Pg. 17-23

  • Final Assembly & Adjustment Pg. 24-27

Parts Catalog

    • PCB

    • Scroll

    • Scroll Wheel Spring

    • Mouse Switch Platforms

    • Power Switch

    • Side Button PCB

    • Battery Terminals & Connector

    • Screws

  • 4 x Long Screws (Were used to secure the original base to the top shell)

  • 4 x Switch Screws (Were used to secure M1 & M2 switches to the shell)

  • 13 x Short Stubby Screws

  • Exoskeleton

  • DPI Button

  • Mouse Triggers

  • Back Shell

    • 3D Printed Parts

    • Base Mod

      • (L/R) Switch Holder (MM710)

      • LR44 Battery Holder (675 Batteries have higher capacity)

      • Base (9/22/20 Update: Added Base with LR44 Battery Holder)

    • Main Hook


***Notes: All parts will be referred to by their previously stated names. If you are missing any of the screws required, there may be steps that don’t require using all the screws to secure the component. Move screws around at your own discretion. You will need paper/cardstock/tape for additional adjustments to the button tension for the base mod.


For Base Mod

    • Soldering Tools

    • Flush Cutters

  • Phillips-Head Micro Screw Driver (Comes with soldering kit)

    • Super Glue

    • Micro File Set

  • Can also use sandpaper taped to a popsicle stick (220 grit)

3D Print Settings & Tips

PLA, PETG, and ABS are all good materials to print these parts in, PLA being the easiest to print in. Change temperatures according to the materials.

Base & Base with LR44 Holder (0.15 mm Layer Height, 10-15% Grid Infill)

  • When screwing in components DO NOT over tighten, the holes should have the proper,  over-tightening may split the layers or strip the hole.

  • Although supports aren’t required, having some everywhere will leave a cleaner area in the hole that receives the hook. You may still need to perform some cleanup in the hole with an X-Acto knife

    • All components should have a snug, but proper fit. DO NOT use excessive force to put any PCB components in, if there is interference use the needle files or sandpaper to clean up any artifacts.

  • If the scroll doesn’t click or fit correctly you may have to file down the bottom and sides of the scroll wheel holders (marked red)

  • The printing orientation should be flat. (I have no idea how else you’d print it)

  • For the base with hex holes, triple-check that the first layer is down smoothly or else restart the print, printing slowly isn’t a bad idea either

Hook (0.10mm Layer Height, 50+ % Infill)

  • This thing is tiny, slow down print speeds and print at as fine of a resolution as your printer can properly handle.

  • Needs high infill because the hook will be repeatedly removed to change out the battery

  • Printing orientation should be with the hook facing up to avoid supports.

  • To make the hook fit between the PCB and the base you may need to sand/file the back of the hook 

  • Test that the hook properly fits inside the hole in the base before gluing it to the MM710/711 Exoskeleton

(L/R) Switch Holders (0.10 mm Layer Height, 20% Infill [Doesn’t really matter])

  • May need to use files or the X-Acto knife to give space for the switches, mine fit in pretty snug, if the fit is too loose add tape or other materials to hold the switch in

  • Printing orientation should be with the rectangular bit facing upwards

Side Buttons (0.10 – 0.15mm, Infill 20% [Doesn’t really matter])

  • Need supports on this print since there are portions offset from the bottom-most layer

  • May need to clean up the platforms that touch the side button and adjust them via sanding/filing

  • Should slide in smoothly into the original slot for the MM710 side buttons

Alternative: Modifying the original side buttons

  • You can use the original side buttons if you’d like, they just need a few adjustments to make them work with the G305 side buttons

  • Trim off the original plungers so they are flush with the surface

  • Add a small amount of plastic to these areas so they are raised, make adjustments accordingly with tape/glue/etc so you get a good snappy feeling on the side buttons

  • Note: you may want to glue a piece of stiff plastic against this leg to even out how the side button goes inward

LR44 Battery Holder (0.15 – 0.20mm, Infill 20% [Doesn’t really matter])

  • Only needed if premade LR44 battery holder hasn’t been acquired

  • Printed upside down to ensure that the hole tolerance is correct

  • Supports are required to ensure that overhangs are correctly printed

  • May need to clean up the slots to ensure that the battery terminals fit properly

***Note: These are the settings and orientation I found were best for my printer in PrusaSlicer (Which has poor support settings). Only YOU will know the best settings for your printer and situation.



The obvious steps of the assembly will be omitted.

MM710 Disassembly (~5 min) (Video [Thanks to Ant])

Start by removing the back mouse feet       Unscrew the back screws



Pull the base from the back and shift the top shell forward

Unclip the back of the top shell (Start with the front two)

Remove the Main Mouse Buttons

Remove the old side buttons by pushing the old ones in the orientation shown and sliding them out of the top. Install the new 3D printed [Side Buttons] by sliding them into the old slot. They should just snap into place.

MM710 Trimming (~15 min)

***Read through the instructions before performing any of the cuts, this mod is irreversible. Use safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris while using the flush cutters.***

Marked in red are the areas you need to trim

Start in these locations, placing the flush cutters up against the surface and trimming them. It should take a light amount of force.

Then move on to remove the main two hooks. Start by trimming the front of the hooks by cutting the front two tabs (Blue) then bending hook back a bit to access the rest (Green).

The two side tabs may be a bit hard to access with the flush cutters but it is possible to cut them piece by piece.

Lastly, trim this tab due to interference with the scroll

This is optional but it’ll help keep the shell from interfering with wires in a later step. Trim this piece (on the right side) diagonally, not flush with the shell.

Reassemble everything


The last step in preparing the top shell is to glue in the [Main Hook]. First, check that the [Main Hook] fits in well by pushing it into the [Base]. It should be able to fit in nicely and be flush with the front of the base.

You may also want to sand the back of the hook to give it more clearance between the base and the G305 PCB. Now is also the time to sand/file the hook if you want to paint it.

Use super glue or another alternative to glue in the hook in the area marked blue. Make sure that it matches up flush with the front of the MM710/711 shell.

Top Shell preparation is now done, feel free to take a break here!


PCB Preparation (~20 min)

Take your time with all the cuts and read through all the instructions before performing any of them. All of these cuts can be performed with a Dremel tool but I preferred the Flush Cutters and Micro file since I could be more precise with them. ***Make sure you do not breath in the dust from the PCB by wearing proper safety equipment***

(9/22/20 Update: I actually found that it’s alright to just trim the little tab that sticks out of the front so long as you prepare the front hook correctly)

Let’s start by creating space for the hook to fit into the hole in the base by trimming the front of the PCB.

Take a flat micro file and take material off the front until you reach just outside the white outline of the antenna component. Make sure you file parallel to this line and go no further or else you risk cutting into a trace or a component.

You will expose part of the ground plane by doing this, this is normal and won’t affect the operation of the PCB

Attaching the mouse switches to the PCB is probably the most complicated part of the build so take your time with all the cuts

Remove the marked material

Use the Flush Cutters to remove the majority of the material and then use the flat file to clean it up. If you feel uncomfortable removing this much with the flush cutters you can also use a small drill bit to remove some of the material in between.

Widen the slots until they are flush with the edges of the circles. If the switches touch the sides of the slots they will short out and continue to press. You can also apply electrical tape/heat shrink to the contacts to prevent this.


Mouse switches are mounted to the PCB with the [(L/R) Switch Holder]

Insert your desired mouse switches into both of the [Switch Holders], making sure that they are facing the right way and the square extrusion is facing downward. If you plan on using the switches from the G305 or the MM710, you’ll have to desolder them first. Check that they are in the right orientation before soldering.

The rectangular protrusion should face downward!

And inserted into the rectangular hole as shown.

Desolder the wires from the [Mouse Switch Platforms] using a desoldering pump or by heating up the pads and pulling the wires out.

Solder the wires according to this diagram. The white and black set of wires go to the switch on the right side while the red and black wires go to the switch on the left side (The lengths also show you this). Ensure that the exposed switch contacts do not touch the slots that we made in the PCB either by using heat shrink or widening the slot.

Attach the [Switch Holders] to the PCB using [2x Short Stubby Screws]

Attach the [LR44 Battery Holder] to the PCB using one of the [Short Stubby Screws] and place the battery terminals inside the holder. You may need to secure the red terminal with Super Glue to keep it in.

Prepare the LR44 Holder by bending the tabs so the metal terminals don’t fall off and trimming the portion marked in red

Glue in the holder, you might want to lightly sand the contact areas to increase adhesion

Solder the red wire to the terminal on the outside and the black wire to the terminal on the inside.

Place the scroll wheel inside the encoder. Although it’s not too important, don’t forget the scroll spring as well.

PCB preparation is done!

Final Assembly & Adjustments (~5 min)

Place the PCB Assembly inside the [Base]. Don’t forget the On/Off Switch or the Scroll Spring

Use [6x Short Stubby Screws] to secure it. Do not overtighten

Place in the side switches, they should fit in snuggly. If they don’t fit, use an X-Acto knife to clean up the slots or add in a small amount of tape/glue to tighten it up. Don’t forget to plug in all the connectors

Add pieces of tape/cardstock/paper to the base of the main mouse button plungers as well as the side buttons to adjust the button tension. You will need to add quite a few to even get the main mouse buttons to start pressing.

If you have a 1.1mm drill, you could also drill out the plunger near the top and use [Short Stubby Screws] to add screw adjustment, do not drill near the back or else you risk interfering with parts from the [Exoskeleton]


Hook the Top Shell into the [Base], if the [Main Hook] doesn’t fit in between the PCB and the hook hole, file down the back of the hook.

Screw in the back two screws from the beginning of the MM710 disassembly and then it’s done!

Place the mouse feet in a way that doesn’t block the back two screws since you’ll be changing out the battery fairly frequently.



If you have any questions or concerns about this mod feel free to contact me via any of the methods on the first page.

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