Wireless Ultralight 2 using Logitech G305

Wireless Ultralight 2 using Logitech G305


Etsy Link: Click Here | What you’ll need:

Finalmouse shell

Logitech G305


Snipping/cutting tool

3D Printer / 3D Printed Parts

AAA Battery

Sandpaper (optional)



The black prints in this tutorial are using a different brand of filament than I’ve had before and the quality seems kind of mediocre. I printed off a new bottom plate to make this tutorial using the latest version of my bottom plate and this print turned out particularly gnarly. The actual files are fine however, I just haven’t gotten this filament to come out well on my printer specifically.

I printed all of my pieces using Cura’s stock Ender 3 Standard Quality @ 0.2mm.

I haven’t had any issues with pieces snapping @ 20% infill but if you were concerned about a specific area you can obviously print with a higher % or print that area specifically at 100% infill instead of whichever amount you print the rest at. Cura tutorial: https://youtu.be/su_m5zV9rvA?t=126

There is no soldering needed for this mod. You’ll need to cut a few parts from under the topshell.  The shell will still go back into the stock bottom shell if you wanted to reverse the mod. Before (right) After (left).



Disassemble Logitech G305 – I used Beardedbob’s teardown video as a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqC2Eo85LQI

Disassemble Finalmouse – Much simpler. Reference video for original Ultralight. UL2 is the same thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDD_j_0G4cI

Here’s the orientation I print the files at:


Cut the topshell as shown above.

Snap the button holders into place.

Line up the mouse button switches into place with their pins going through the button mount and pcb holes.

Put the battery connectors in the holder. Note the negative and positive ends.

Put it on the pcb. Don’t plug it in yet. I find it easier to get the G305 on/off switch into place if you flick it to the left, which is On. As such, wait until everything is in place before plugging in the battery connector. When you do plug it in, the correct orientation is Red cord on the left, and black cord on the right.

Put the side button pcb on it’s mount. Just make sure it’s as far back as it goes (arrow).

Now just line up the front clips and the back rod holster and pop the topshell on.


If you have issues with aligning the shell this is an excerpt from my Air58 tutorial, and it’s the same thing:

Start by lining up the clips and pushing them into place at the front. Push down and forward a bit just like with the stock FM baseplate. If you have issues watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm2M3u-ZmfA

Now just flip it over and screw it all together. I used the Finalmouse screws for these holes. Hold it together while you screw it in. Test the clicks and buttons. The clicks will likely vary a bit, but they definitely feel good, so if you don’t think so just pop the top off and replace it back on. Additionally, check to make sure no wires are crossing over where it shouldn’t be or are getting in the way anywhere. I’ve let my DPI button get blocked by cords in the past when I didn’t bother to check wire paths.


Good to go. Alignment pics for reference:

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