Wireless XM1 Ajazz i305 Guide

Wireless Rechargeable XM1 Ajazz i305 Guide (85g)

What you will need

Endgame Gear XM1

Ajazz i305 (Two Non-referral links. The NACODEX one is the same.

Some sort of clippers or cutters for the inside of the XM1

3D printer or you can order 3d printed parts. You can contact me, try a printing service (I have no experience with them), or try r/3DPrintMyThing

Click here for link 1

Screwdriver

Sandpaper (optional)

Click here for link 2

Mouse Feet (if you don’t salvage yours)

 

Link to files: Click here

 

Notes:

 

This version will sit like 2mm higher. This is a concession to the correct PCB liftoff distance and utilizing the XM1 scroll wheel. If I change this we’ll either get DPI deviation, or the top shell will sit so low that the scroll wheel sticks and isn’t usable.

 

I am sure the i305 isn’t 100% up to par with Logitech or Razer. I went with it because it allows for a rechargeable mouse without any soldering and from all accounts I’ve seen has looked to be at least good. I’ve played with it a lot and I don’t have any qualms with it but I don’t have any graphs showing it’s flawless or anything. For the love of god do not ask me “if it lags” as I’ll just disregard the question.

 

You could lower the weight by switching out the battery for a smaller one with less lifetime. The current battery is 800 mah and an absolute chonker.

Steps

 

Disassemble both mice. There are screws under their feet, so you’ll need to remove those. It’s fairly straight forward, and as long as you don’t forcefully rip anything or try your hardest to break things you should be ok. Remove the screws from the PCB, scroll PCB, and undo the back ribbon (in Red). Leave the battery plugged in and the black tape alone (Blue). My battery is missing in this pic because I’m using a 2nd PCB for these pics. The lens should stay attached to your PCB but just note if it falls off. Not a big deal if it does just don’t lose it.

 

Keep two of the i305 bottom screws and the two PCB screws.

 

 

Pull out and up to remove the scroll PCB

 

 

I would remove the On/Off switch now since it falls off easily and can be lost

 

 

You’ll only need the topshell and scroll from the XM1. You will have to cut a few pieces of plastic off on the inside. Make yours match mine. As far as I can tell the cuts don’t really matter a ton and I can put my shells back with their original baseplates and PCBs.

 

 

Put the printed side buttons and the plunger addons on now. Just slide the plunger pieces into place and align the side buttons like so:

 

Take off the i305 scroll and put the XM1 scroll in its place. Place the printed scroll circle on the right edge of it. This holds it in place and lets you push down for the mouse scroll click button. I would just use some masking tape to hold the battery in place. It’s sort of jank but I wasn’t happy with any of the printed pieces for holding the battery, plus any additional material would push the thing over 85 grams, and as we all know then it would be an unusable brick and we can’t have that.

 

Put the lens and OnOff switch back on if they fell off. I find it easiest to keep the PCB upside-down like this and put it on the baseplate in this orientation. Line it up and combine them. Make sure the PCB lays flat and the OnOff switch doesn’t fall off as it does this fairly easily

 

 

Put the PCB screws in. Check the front of the mouse and make sure the alignment is good and make sure not to overtighten

 

Time to put the top shell on. Snap the numbered areas together. Start with lining up the front and applying pressure down there and snapping it front to back. Test the clicks now. If they don’t actuate then either use a taller plunger piece or it’s misaligned. Pull off the top and try again if so. Even if you can click both, but the right click feels like it’s barely clicking then try a taller piece or reseat the top shell. The right click is a tad more finicky than the left, but they should feel generally similar

 

 

Now just screw in from the bottom of the baseplate using two of the four screws from the bottom of the i305. Don’t overtighten them. You’ll know if you tightened it too much if the scroll wheel has a lot of resistance or won’t scroll

 

 

Connect the receiver to your computer and open the software. Set whatever DPI you want. If you wanna be totally sure download mousetester to see if you’ve got any DPI deviation and adjust accordingly if so. I’ve got some normal deviation, using 0.8mm thick Tiger Arc 1s for the Air58. I say it’s normal because it’s within 50 and you’ll get a bit of DPI deviation from mouse to mouse, or with different feet as is

 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/375-mice/1590569-mousetester-software-reloaded.html

 

 

Finally, bind “Forward” to Mouse 6 if you want normal side button function, or obviously change it to whatever you use it for otherwise. By default it’s set to shoot/left click I think and it’s highly unlikely you want that. Mouse 5 is unavailable to you with these side buttons

You’re all set. I just have a blurb about printing below.

Here are the orientations I print in. I use the Cura Standard Quality Ender 3 profile with “Print Thin Walls” enabled @ 10% infill. I’m sure that most reasonable profiles work fine, but this is the only way I’ve made it so it’s worth mentioning. You’ll only need supports on the side buttons. There are three thicknesses for the mouse plungers. This is to account for the small differences between M1 and M2 positioning, and variations from profiles or the printers themselves.If you still need longer plunger pieces, I’d either adjust the height scale in Cura, or try to add some small amount (0.2 – 0.25 mm) to them in whatever software you prefer. I don’t expect you’ll need to do that but it’s a suggestion if you do.

 

I made an OnOff switch if you lose your stock one, but I’d just say don’t lose it or use a screw driver to move the switch tbh. Even the default one is difficult to keep stuck to the bottom and the printed one is similar.

 

I’ve provided the fusion files for the Scroll Circle, Mouse Plungers, and OnOff switch in case you need to edit them for a better fit due to printer variations

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